How to build a custom 3Dprinted RC Peugeot 406 from TAXI2?
This is how we did it. With our LEGACY Chassis v.3.1
What a classic from 2000! All Europeans know this car, The magical French Super Star. If I’d be American I would definitely check this out too!
As always we let you be the judge to tell how well we could capture it.
Our aim was to get it as much authentic as possible.
Testing Video
Download body kit
STL files archived with WinRAR
Chassis v.3.1 (Peugeot 406)
This is a Legacy Chassis! Click to v.3.3
Chassis dimensions
Wheelbase | 271mm |
Front Wheel Track | 170mm |
Rear Wheel Track | 170mm |
We strive for an ultimate universal chassis because we wanna use it under many 3D printed car bodies. So that’s why the slideable parts.
The chassis is built on a 2 (aluminium) U profile (8×10 mm) with bought and 3D printed parts.
3D printed parts: Housing of the electric motor, housing of the battery, most of the steering system…
Bought parts are:
The suspension (length 60 mm), the different wheel rims with the tires, the servo, the receiver, drive shaft and the differential is from Tamiya, the electric motor (17000 rpm), and of course screws (M2, M3) and the ball joints (M3).
Parts List of Chassis v.3.1 (1st generation)
Screws and nuts:
M4x40 1 piece + M4 nut
M4x~25 2 piece
M2x12 ~50 pieces
M2x16 ~16 pieces
M2x20 ~16 pieces
M2x8 ~ 8 pieces
Nails:
D2x38 4 pieces
Threaded rods:
M4 2 pieces 47mm long
Bearings:
4x10x4 4 pieces
5x11x5 8 pieces
Download CHASSIS
STL files archived with WinRAR
The whole design is made for scale 1:10
This is our third model’s self-developed Chassis.
It’s quite, sturdy now as it can be jumped with
3D printing settings we used
3D Printer: Zortrax M200 plus
Technology: LPD
Used material: ABS filamen
Slicer program: Zortrax Z-SUITE
Settings:
Infill: 20%
Recomended layer height: 0.19 mm
Support was set automatically by the program
Got a question about building Know-How? Ask us on here at the bottom of this page!
Gearbox
Non-printed parts and general INFO of 3Dprinted RC Peugeot 406 from TAXI2
Shock absorbers
Hole to hole distance: 60 mm
Get it on ebay
Rocking arm screws
2mm nail 35-40mm long. Threaded (DIY), used as a screw. Note: Spring washer used!
Tires
1:10 Slick Tamiya 50547 wide / 50454 normal tires with the original 3d printed ICE charger rims
Ball cups for steering
4 mm ball with 3mm screw thread.
Tamiya: 50590
Servo
Feetech FS5103B
get it on ebay
Wheel adapter
Tamiya: 53056
get it on ebay
Rear Drive Shaft
Tamiya: 51216 TA05
A front drive shaft must be shortened
Get it on ebay
Flange lock nut
Tamiya: 53024
Touring car hard joint cup set
Tamiya: 53218
TG10 Wheel Axle 2 pcs
Tamiya: 50823
Motor 540
7.2 – 12 V , 20.000 rpm
Body mounting system
Middle and Frontal mount developed by us
Vinyls used for Lights
Lights and other signs printed on adhesive paper
5x11x5 bearing
Bearing for gearbox
get it on ebay
4x10x4 bearing
Front wheel bearing
Front Grille
Mosquito net used for front Grille raw material from Hardware Store
Filling unwanted cracks
Tamiya: 87053
Assembly
Here are the bigger body parts. This has a bit more pieces, because of our printer’s hectic manner.(Smaller parts, less exploding heads at the end of print sessions 🙂
Chassis assembly Video
Most used tools
Scalpel&Allenkeys&RASPs
Scalpel for removing print support. Keys for screws. Every kind of Rasps to get the surface smooth and even.
Super glue
Both Gel and Liquid ones. Use GEL when putting parts together. When it holds use LIQUID on the surface.
Glue Gun
It’s adhesive sets very quickly. We used it only inside the body kit, because on the surface leaves nasty traces.
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